CompostaBlog

Imagine eating luscious red strawberries fresh from your garden still warm from the sun. What a treat and that treat can be yours. Here are easy tips for growing strawberries.

Strawberries need at least six hours of sun a day to flower and set fruit. Keep that in mind when selecting a site for your berries. Strawberry pots, those big pots with little holes in the sides are not ideal for strawberries because they dry out too fast.

Strawberries prefer rich soil. Dig down about six inches with a sturdy shovel and turn the dirt over. Remove rocks and twigs and sprinkle in a slow release fertilizer per package directions. Add a bag of compost or well rotted manure for every 8 square feet of your strawberry patch. For example if your patch is 12 feet by 12 feet you would need 4 bags. Spread the compost evenly and then turn over the soil again to mix the fertilizer and compost into the soil.

Plant strawberry plants about 12 inches apart. Strawberries grow quickly into a bush about a foot around.

Water well. Every month use a liquid fertilizer that feeds the foliage (leaves) as well as soaking into the ground. Strawberries have small white flowers between the size of a dime and quarter with yellow centers. Each plant can have from 3 or 4 berries to a dozen. Depending on the variety of the berry you buy, you can have all the berries setting and ripening at once to berries that ripen continuously over the summer.

Don’t over water your plants especially after the berries have set. Mud around the fruit can cause the fruit to rot. Test the soil to see if it needs water by inserting your finger into the dirt. If the soil is still moist up to within an inch of the surface you can wait to water. If it’s dry then water. It’s best to water deeply less often. That encourages the roots of the plant to reach down into the soil.

When the berries are showing a blush of pink think about how you’re going to discourage birds from eating the berries. This can be accomplished with netting held over the berries by tying the net to posts about one foot off the ground. Or you can try using tinsel, yes the kind you buy for Christmas decorations or specially made foil that grape vineyard use.

If slugs or snails are a problem in your area , Set out jar lids filled with beer in the evening. The slugs and snails love beer, will fall in and drown.

Don’t spray the flowers with insecticides. You risk killing the bees which pollinate the flowers turning them from flowers into berries. Use a strong spray from your garden hose to knock any bugs off the plants.

Berries don’t ripen any more after being picked so wait until your berries are a bright crimson red before picking.

Follow these easy tips from Easy Garden Care and you’ll have lush sweet strawberries fresh from your garden.

Find more tips from Dee Power on growing strawberries at http://www.easygardencare.com.

More on Growing Fruits and Vegetables

The Loire Valley is a wonderful delight for garden enthusiasts. Not only can you admire the spectacular castles and enjoy fine French cuisine and great Loire valley wine, tourists can also marvel at some amazing gardens. The whole valley is now listed b UNESCO as a world heritage site

Chateau Villandry is a gem and a must see for any one with a vegetable garden in need of some inspiration. Chateau Chaumont on the banks of the Loire River holds a spectacular international garden festival every summer. Peony and rose lovers should visit the botanical gardens at Orchaise west of Blois.

Chateau Villandry owes its fame to the exceptional terraced gardens which sit on three levels and include an ornamental garden, a water garden Eight gardeners work full time in the gardens of Villandry, and plant about 60,000 vegetables and 45,000 plants in its gardens each year. Villandry is a dynamic place, the site of many activities such as the summer festival, 3special exhibits, the “Vegetable Garden Days” in September and workshops with the gardeners from the chateau.

The gardens at Chateau Villandry are an imaginative twentieth century re-creation of a 16th century renaissance castle garden. The moated Chateau dates from 1536 and had a formal garden in the eighteenth century. The existing garden dates from the years after 1906 when it was bought by a Spaniard, Dr Joachim Carvallo.

He bought the property and poured an enormous amount of time, money and devotion into repairing the castle. Inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, he wished the garden to have a sixteenth century character. He created what many gardeners consider to be the most beautiful gardens anywhere in the world.

The gardens are split into several parts: a water garden with a pond, an ornamental flower garden near the castle, a children’s garden with a play area, a maze made from 1,200 beech trees, a kitchen garden with aromatic herbs and vegetables and a greenhouse garden.

An arbour of grape vines leads to a great parterre, conceived as a Garden of Music. The Garden of Love is o nthe other side of the canal. Symbolising the moods of love, it is actually trapezoid but looks rectangular from the chateau. The love garden has its heart-shaped box hedges laid out with square beds illustrating “Tragic Love”, “Fickle love”, “Tender Love” and “Insane Love” and its colourful flowers. There is also the beautiful water garden with its lawns and pool of water.

But the real treasure at Chateau Villandry is the ultimate vegetable garden. It is laid out in nine squares, bordered by espaliered apple trees, drooping pear bushes and standard roses which symbolise the monks who once tended the first medieval vegetable gardens, Villandry is a vegetal feast, with blocks of autumn pumpkins, zigzags of crazy-growing leeks, big purple cabbages, beds of yellow and green peppers and mounds of celery all replanted twice a year with a brilliant eye for the colours of the changing seasons.

In 1934, Chateau de Villandry was designated a monument historique. It is still owned by the Carvallo family, and open to the public. It is one of the most visited castles in France. In July the gardens are lit by over 2000 candles after dark and this beautiful vision of the gardens is accompanied by baroque music played by musicians wandering throughout the gardens.

An international garden festival takes places every day during the entire summer, on the grounds of the Chateau de Chaumont. Gardeners from all over the world produce outstanding gardens around a central theme, using nature and art together to create the desired effect.

Lasting six months from late April to mid-October, some 25 gardens at Chateau de Chaumont take a different theme each year - from water, weeds and vegetables to more conceptual poetry. The Garden Festival at Chaumont drawing international teams of artists, architects and stage directors as well as landscape designers and gardeners.

The theme for the festival for 2007 is mobility. Last year it was play and most of the exhibits were highly interactive and a delight to the young and to the young at heart.

The botanic park at Orchaise boasts over 2,000 plant varieties from around the world ranging from blooming cherries to water lilies. It is especially well known for its beautiful array of roses and penies.

The Loire Valley can not help to inspire gardeners. Even Mick Jagger gyrating lead singer of the Rolling Stones, is now garden enthusiast at his preferred second residence near Amboise. He got Alvilde Lees-Milne to lay out a marvelous formal walled garden at his 15th century chateau and he has now become completely part of the garden, knowing every single thing about all the plants, the flowers, and the way the fruit trees are espaliered.

Inspirational Gardens

Corina Clemence operates Chateau du Guerinet a luxury french castle in the Loire Valley near Blois, for up to fifteen people perfect for a fantastic french holiday with family and friends and for unwinding and visiting historic castles and vineyards. The castle is perfect for a fairytale french wedding, party or any event. You can rent the whole castle or rent a luxury suite. www.loirechateau.com Come and explore the gardens in this delightful region.

In the summer, you’ll be more likely to be in your water garden in the evenings, enjoying your pond, watching the fish swimming lazily through the water. The heat of summer, however provides some challenges in maintaining your pond, and keeping the fish healthy. These tips will help you to keep the fish and the pond healthy.

Oxygen

Oxygen levels in your pond are essential if you have gold fish. When the water temperatures reach 90 degrees F., level of oxygen should be at least 7.0 ppm. You will start noticing signs of stress in the fish when the oxygen level drops to 4.0 ppm, and they will start dying at 3.0 ppm. The oxygen levels in the water will drop as the temperatures rise, so during the hottest part of the day, you should provide shade for the pond and the fish to keep the water temperatures down. Fountains, air stones, or other aerators will help to add oxygen to the water to keep the fish healthy.

Parasites

Parasites such as anchor worms, fish lice, flukes, and other parasites will increase in warm weather. Some of the symptoms will include thick mucous on the fish, rubbing against objects in the pond, jumping, and flashing. Visible parasites, like anchor worms, fish lice, and others can be treated with Dylox, Dipterex, and Masoten. For other parasite infections, you should consult a pond specialist for treatment. Be sure to tell them how the fish are behaving, and what the symptoms are. Follow the instructions on the label carefully to avoid killing off the fish as well as the parasites.

Feeding

As the weather, and the water temperature warms up, so will the metabolism of your fish, so you will need to feed them at different intervals than in cooler weather. Estimate the total body weight of the fish in the pond, then feed them 1%-1.5% of the total body weight in food, 5-8 times a day. Koi will digest their food faster in warmer weather than in cooler weather. When the weather gets warm, you should feed them about 5-8 times a day as opposed to 1-3 times a day in cooler weather.

Shade

If your pond gets direct sunlight during the day, especially during the hottest part of the day, you should provide shady areas for the fish to keep out of the sunlight, especially in shallow ponds. Water lilies, rocks, and other plants will provide shade for the fish. If you have to, you can also shade the pond with a beach umbrella. Just make sure that the fish have shelter from the direct sunlight to prevent them from getting sunburn. Shade will also help to prevent algae.

Evaporation

In warm weather, more water evaporates from the pond, especially with a large surface area. Monitor the level of the water daily, and add water to your pond as needed. Remember not to use water with chlorine if you have fish. You can buy water treatments that will remove chlorine from the water, or fill a few buckets, and let them sit overnight before adding it to your pond.

A pond does require quite a bit of attention in the summer. But by following these simple tips, you can keep the pond and its inhabitants healthy. And you’ll get more enjoyment out of a healthy pond.

Check out http://www.water-gardens-fountains.com for more pond care tips and resources.
Seasonal Gardening

It’s easy,very inexpensive and they taste better too so lets get started!

STEP 1: Which tomatoes should I grow? If you have a long growing season then you would want to go with an indeterminate variety which grows all summer long. If your growing season is short then you would go with a determinate variety which produces its fruit quickly (in as little as 85 days or less) and ripens all at once.

Step 2: Now that I have bought my seeds what do I do with them? Six to eight weeks for the end of winter I line up little paper cups filled with peat moss and put one seed in each cup. I then place them in a sunny window sill and water almost daily as peat tends to dry out quickly. Make sure not to over water or let the seed/roots sit in excessive water as this will kill them.

As your seedlings grow transplant them into larger and larger containers, each time burying them up to the first set of leaves. The plant will send out roots from the buried stem and will develop a stronger root system by the time they are ready to be planted outdoors. Once your seedlings have taken off and the threat of frosts are over move your plants outdoors for a few hours each afternoon to get them acclimated, or hardened off, before actually planting them in the garden.

Will any soil work? Tomatoes need a rich, well-drained soil ideally full of organic matter, so get started on that compost pile early.

How much sun do they need? Tomatoes require full sun which translates into no less than 6 to 8 hours a day. Plants will be weak and unhealthy with anything less.

STEP 3: Okay it’s time to transplant. Transplanting is an important step and if you do it carefully, you can look forward to an abundant crop of healthy mouth watering tomatoes.

Once your tomato plants have been hardened, or acclimated to outdoor conditions, and night-time temperatures continually exceed 50 degrees, it’s time to set your plants out into your garden or patio containers.

After planting your tomato plants its a good idea to place organic mulch around them. mulch helps keep the soil most and helps keep fruit off the ground, preventing rotting. The advantages to Mulching is that the soil retains moisture requiring less waterings. Also, the mulch acts as a slow release fertilizer and helps keep the weeds down.

STEP 4: It’s a good idea to prune your plants by pinching off the small leaves which appear in the crotch above a larger stem. Don’t pinch off too many large leaves or the sun will burn developing fruit. Pinching back the top of the plant after it reaches the top of your stake or cage encourages more flowering and fruit.

How often should I water them? Your plants should be deep watered 2 to 3 times a week or more depending of your soil type. If the plant is seen wilting in the middle of the day, ignore it. They will perk right back up by late afternoon. If the plants look droopy in the morning, they need water.

All that hard work gardening is getting ready to pay off and depending on what type of tomato plants you chose more than likely you will have an over abundance of ripe tomatoes.

When the fruits have ripened, pick them by bending back the fruit at the notch on the stem. They can be eaten straight from the plant, or can be stored for up to a week in the fridge.

Tomatoes store well in a cool, dry location. Do not put them in the refrigerator. While they last longer in the refrigerator, they will lose their flavor and texture. To slow down ripening keep them out of direct sunlight.

Good luck and happy gardening!

Penny owns and operates http://PennysTomatoes.com where she sells tomato seeds and offers advice on how to turn those seeds into tons of mouth watering tomatoes. She has written articles for South Carolina Womans Magazine and was a guest on Southern Style, a local show in Myrtle Beach.

More on Growing Tomatoes

Composting is not only one of the best things you can do for your garden, it is also one of the best things you can do for our environment. Knowing how to create and use compost is in our interest due to the tremendous problem of waste disposal. Landfills are becoming more and more difficult to find, so some municipalities are dealing with waste by refusing to pick up leaves and grass clippings.. About one-third of the space in our landfills is taken up with organic wastes from our yards and kitchens, which are ideal materials to be used in compost.

The end product from your compost bin it will be a wonderful pile of black, crumbly humus which makes an ideal soil conditioner. Compost added regularly to your soil will benefit the soil by improving it’s texture such as loosening up clay soils and will create moisture holding capacity in sandy soils.

Composting, is the controlled decomposition of biodegradable organic matter. Instead of allowing nature to take its slow course, a compost pile or bin provides the optimal environment in which decomposition can thrive. To encourage the best results, the compost pile needs the correct mix of the following ingredients:

* Carbon
* Nitrogen
* Oxygen

With enough time, all biodegradable materials will eventually decompose, although some materials are not appropriate for backyard composting. Most backyard systems will not reach high enough temperatures to kill pathogens and vermin, so certain items such as meat scraps, dairy products and pet droppings are discouraged from use. A well balanced compost pile will not have an offensive smell

High carbon materials (browns), which convert to heat include:

* Dry straw and hay
* Autumn leaves
* Newspaper

High nitrogen materials (greens) which will allow the compost bacteria to thrive include:

* Green plant material such as garden residue, fresh hay, grass clippings, and weeds
* Animal manure; such as horse, cow, chicken, or guano
* Fruit and vegetable waste
* Seaweed  (rinse well to remove salt)
* Coffee grounds and filters

A few leaf species such as live oak, southern magnolia and holly trees are too tough and leathery for easy composting, also avoid all parts of the black walnut tree as they contain a plant poison that survives composting. It is also common sense to avoid using poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac in your compost.

The proportions of these materials will make a difference in the rate of decomposition. The best ratio is about 25 or 30 parts of browns to one part of greens. Too much carbon slows the composting process and too much nitrogen will cause odors.

As a convenience, keep a small compost pail in the kitchen to bring your scraps to the pile every few days. Keep a lid on the container to discourage insects and odors.

A well chosen site will speed up the composting process. Find a level, well drained sunny area preferably over dirt or grass. If you plan to be using kitchen scraps, keep it close to the back door and also close to the garden so that it will be used on a regular basis and not forgotten.

Home composting uses a variety of techniques, running from passive composting (throw everything into a pile in the corner and leave it alone) to active, which consists of monitoring temperature, turning the pile on a regular basis and adjusting the materials on a regular schedule. A well managed system may produce a finished product in as little as three to four weeks, but this involves some participation, ranging from turning the pile on a regular basis to a major commitment of time and energy.

Is very helpful to have a compost bin enclosed in a structure either homemade or purchased. The bin should measure at least about 3 ft. by 3 ft. and should have air spaces so air circulation can occur. Materials such as used freight pallets, chicken wire, builders’ hardware cloth or concrete blocks can all be utilized to create a three sided structure. You may find it desirable to have two bins, one for fresh material while the composting process is happening in the other bin. Leave one side open for access or create a gate that can be opened for access. A tarpaulin may be used to cover the top of the bin in rainy weather to prevent the compost from getting too wet.

Start your compost pile with a 3 in. layer of course plant material such as small twigs or straw. Next place your first layer of plant and kitchen refuse. The next layer should be a nitrogen rich material such as fresh manure if it is available, fresh grass clippings, fresh hay, or succulent green weeds. If the waste materials are fairly free of soil, a small amount of soil, a compost starter, a layer of old compost or good gardening soil added to each layer will introduce necessary microorganisms.

Water the pile just enough to keep the contents moist but not soaking wet. In a week or two, the pile should heat up to approximately to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature many of the weed seeds and harmful organisms will be killed. Approximately a month after this point the pile should be forked over to thoroughly mix the materials in the pile. Repeat this step in another five to six weeks. If the pile is decreasing in size after this time, you will know that it is composting properly.

The finished compost will be black and crumbly, like good loam, with a pleasant, earthy smell. The compost is now ready to use.

Another system of composting is called sheet composting. A layer of organic material, about 3 to 4 in thick is spread over your garden, and then covered with a 2 in. layer of soil. The organic material is allowed to decay at least three months prior to cultivating. This can be done over the winter when your garden is fallow and will provide you with a good start for your spring crops.

A different concept of composting that is rapidly gaining in popularity is worm farming, or vermiculture. Small scale vermin-composting is well-suited to turn kitchen waste into high-quality soil, where space is limited. There are suppliers of worm-farming equipment on the internet to help you get started.

Author, Dick Murray is a retired urbanite who has kept his passion for gardening alive with the creation of an informational web site dedicated to vegetable gardening basics. More and more families are beginning to grow their own fruits and vegetables due to their increased concern regarding the quality, price and safety of our food supply. http://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com

More articles on soil building and composting